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Ev lives the Lower Mainland of Beautiful British Columbia, Canada where she has been training dogs since 1969. She is experienced in many methods including clicker and motivational training. Ev is an original Superdog Performance Team member and her own dogs have travelled and performed with the Canadian SuperDogs since 1984. She has also served as an A.A.C. judge ans is an original Member/Trainer with the Dogwood Pacesetters Agility Club.

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http://www.itsmysite.com/k9care/
Doberman Is Hard To Walk [Edit]
6/28/2007

Hello, I have a five year old male Doberman named Hunter. He is overall a wonderful boy! He was housebroken easily at 10 weeks old, does not chew on anything, he is very lovable, and loves kids and other animals. I would really like to walk him on a leash but when he was a puppy I got pregnant and had to tie him out rather than walk him. Now he pulls me all over the place when I try. He gets so excited for me to walk him so I try but I end up getting hurt when he decides to chase a cat or another animal. He pulls me the entire time. Also he can’t resist sniffing and licking at other animals private parts. So my questions are, How do I train this big of a dog to walk beside me on a leash? And how do I stop him from sniffing and licking at other animals private parts? (MyHunterBoy, Delaware)

The leash training is not that difficult if you have handy tools to use while training AND your timing is perfect. Any action must get a reaction, both positive and negative. Example: dog pulls = action, handler corrects = reaction, dog stops pulling = action, handler praises = reaction. You might start in a small area without distraction to get YOUR methods down before taking the plunge onto the streets where you will have much more than just the dog to deal with. Keep your pace 'brisk' but not necessarily fast. Move in a manner that will keep the dogs attention and 'TALK' to him while walking ("What a good boy ... that's such a good walk ... You're so handsome and doing such a good walk ... etc., etc.)

If you find that he's losing interest in you and starts to move in front of you, grasp the leash tight to your body, just above your waist, allow the length of the leash out so you have just the handle and he has room to get the full reaction, warn him just before you turn "Heel." and then suddenly make a 180 degree turn and step out in the opposite direction. Your body should help you handle the torque from him hitting the end of the leash and your voice should be pleasant and happy as if you knew nothing of what happened to him at the end of the leash. INSTANT Praise once he is back at your side and continue talking to him.

You should never walk with a tight leash to the dog - the more tension they feel on their neck, the more likely they are to pull. Have it slightly drooped to the dog. If the dog tightens up on that droop at all, then release the rest of the leash, grasp the handle close to your body and make another turn with the Happy Voice and Praise. Eventually you will find that the dog will start to keep an eye on you because he will figure out that if he doesn't watch when you turn, that darn leash bites him.

Once you get the timing of this motion then increase your area from a backyard to perhaps the tennis courts at the park (controlled and yet more open). The extra distractions will seem like you are starting from scr
atch but be persistent until you have his full attention and then increase the area again to say a parking lot and start again from scratch. You will eventually be able to take him out into the world of traffic and parks and such ONCE you achieve the smaller steps in success. Being an older dog, this may be a few months. For more explaining you can visit my site for the Obedience Techniques.

As for the sniffing and licking - there will be no licking if you jump on the sniffing. This too starts at home with simple steps.

Take his favourite food or toy and on the kitchen or living room floor, squat down in front of him with the toy/treat. Now firmly command "Leave It." and be prepared to act fast. Slowly place the treat/toy on the floor about 18 inches in front of the dog (you may want to sit the dog before hand if his size is too over-bearing), you may repeat the command as many times as you deem necessary but he is not to get the treat/toy until you give permission. Use the Squirt Bottle to enhance your Voice Command giving a quick blast with each command. If the bottle seems to have little effect and he still comes in for the toy/treat, then you may need to lightly smack his muzzle before he can grab the toy/treat. As soon as he hesitates (even if it' just for a second before trying his luck again) you MUST Praise his action. Use the command in the Praise ("Good Leave it.") but be prepared to change the voice tone and command almost as soon as you Praise should he try to get the treat/toy again.

When you have him pausing with your command to Leave It or maybe even avoiding to look at it at all then you are one step closer to achieving the goal - now try moving it around the floor a bit - you may find you're back at square one again. Once you have him ignoring that trick, now change the toy/treat (if using a toy to start, use a treat now and vice versa). You also want to start switching rooms to teach this. Eventually move him outside with more distractions to teach this. Baby steps.

You may find taking the SB with you in the yard or on walks will help you with the sniffing problem but don't jump out into the world until you KNOW he understands what you are saying 'at home'. This command comes in handy for so many things - not just sniffing other dogs. An empty container on the road or perhaps a garbage can you pass that smells good, anything you do not want him to have or be near will use the "Leave It." command BUT the Praise MUST also be there every time and immediately upon seeing his reaction.

I hope I have not confused you too much. It is a common problem you are having and easily cured. If you have any questions or concerns, feel free to contact me through my site. www.k9care.ca


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